Le pudlo


This is called the Pont des Vosges, a brasserie from 1900 brought up to date, with its period stained glass windows, its counter, its covered terrace for the summer, all on the ground floor of a house that is a flower of the neighbourhood that is called ‘German’ as it was built during the occupation. Don’t you know it?

It’s the table of all Strasbourg that eats. Yesterday, Yolande Haag, the Sophia Loren of the Météor brewery in Hochfelden kissed almost every table. André Bord, who was the Minister of Veterans Affairs for General de Gaulle and that who is in fine form at nearly 90, was enthroned superbly in his discreet corner. Hélène Heimburger, called “Belle Hélène”, of Pâtes Grand-Mère of Marlenheim, was there, rubbing shoulders with bankers. In short, the fashionable crowd of Strasbourg eats, goes out and laughs as if it was at home.

I remember having come many times at the time of the great days of the Racing rugby club, after a loss or a victorious match, to taste the homemade specialties simmered with such élan by chef Jean-Philippe Schubnel under the gaze of the beautiful Annie Voegel-Leclerc, who we once knew not far from Ysehut at quai Mullenheim. She keeps an eye (blue) on everything and has a good word for everyone, giving tone, atmosphere and a touch of charm to the place. The place has its own look and atmosphere. The dishes are great, the produce is fresh and high-quality, and there is a steady hand on the wheel. It’s a way of saying we’re in the world of the well-known and reassuring, not seeking astonishment and discovery.

On the programme today: tuna tartare with lime and coriander, leek vinaigrette with smoked salmon, tuna carpaccio with parmesan and fried leeks (the tuna of the carpaccio itself lacked seasoning, but you could add salt and pepper at will), fricassee of squid Provencal, sautéed veal sweetbreads , classic and perfect veal liver fried in the English manner with its slice of bacon and beautiful mashed potatoes, and steak in pepper sauce. Suffice to say that you are happy and relaxed here, without getting tired.

There is still the Météor on draught, the Pinot Noir that is very Pinot and very Burgundy, in 2007, signed Beyer in Eguisheim, and desserts with standing – home made nougat ice, pitted cherry tart or strawberry soup with rhubarb . In short, no showing off, but the tried, the tested, with no fuss whatsoever. All without ruinous prices or any nasty surprise other than to note that all of Strasbourg, at its ease,